City breaks: get away to the magic of Heidelberg
TRAVEL
There is something quite charming about Heidelberg. it might be one of the most visited cities in Germany with three-million tourists per year, but it doesn't seem to suffer from tourist overkill in the way that other cities in europe do. There is a sensibility to the city, as well as a sense of perspective, that is directly related to its image of being pivotal to the Romantic era. in fact, it's more than an image: the early 19th century movement urged artists and thinkers to embrace their national identity and to see the city's semi-ruined castles, the densely wooded surroundings and the, then, newly re-established university, as breeding grounds for a blend of culture, intellect and ideals.
The focus, however, is the majestic castle ruin, which is seated above the old Town and the River neckar. it's a thoroughly romantic backdrop to an old Town that hasn't changed in hundreds of years. The fact that it was spared destruction in the World Wars has also bestowed the city with a veneer of luck and charm.
It is pitched by many as a city of dreams in a storybook setting, but there is something truly lovely about the position-ing of the castle to the old Town. While the 'new Town' section does exactly what new town sections do (high-street stores, fast food outlets, and so on), it is the expansive old Town that glues you to the city.
Strolling along the Hauptstrasse, particularly as the new Town area in and around Bismarck Square fades into the distance, is a wonderful small city experience. Distinct buildings house singular bars; cafés, hotels and shops are to your left and right, while the side streets vie for your attention.
No visit to Heidelberg is complete without a stroll in the grounds of the castlewhich is reached from the old Town by either more than 300 wearying steps up a staircase or via the 'Castle' stop on the funicular railway. The heyday of this important Renaissance structure and world-famous landmark may have been from 1356 to 1693, but even now, with parts of it renovated to accommodate a stream of visitors on a daily basis, its majesty remains.
In a less over the top, but no less important way, there's a classy quality about Heidelberg that stays with you months after you arrive home. it's an image that is difficult to erase. not that you'd ever wish to do so, of course.
GO: Lufthansa and aer Lingus operate flights daily from Dublin to Frankfurt airport. Lufthansa airport Bus has direct departures to Heidelberg (80 km away) from Terminal 1, arrivals Hall B. Prebooking is advised (www.lufthansa- airportbus.de). Trains depart for Heidelberg from Fernbahnhof station, opposite Terminal 1. info: www.bahn.de
SLEEP: Hotel Holländer Hof, neckarstaden 66, (0049) 6221- 60500, www.hollaender-hof. de Located in the heart of the old Town, this is a charming, independently-run hotel with a deft personal touch. Doubles from €108.
EAT: Schnookeloch, Haspelgasse 8, (0049) 6221-138080, www. schnookeloch.de one of several places in the city where students in their university uniform congregate and talk about the next day's fencing contests. Think charm in abundance, and dinner and a pint from €14.
