Travel

Tony Clayton-Lea explores two Eastern European gems.

Eastern promise

Krakow/Poland
Like many European cities, Krakow has seen its share of tragedy, but it seems to have firmly put its past to one side as it strides into a new age of prosperity. There are many things to experience in this magnificent, proud and resilient city, not least the cheapest tourist attraction of them all – its streets, most of which take time to open up to the hum and throb of humanity but which eventually settle down to create a vibrant buzz all of their own. Nightlife, however, is not at all slow, as befits a city that is Poland’s capital of culture. Yes, it has museums (the best in Poland, in fact) and some of the country’s best theatres, but its night life boasts some of the most atmospheric bars/clubs you’ll ever set foot in and/or stumble out of.

What to see/do in Krakow: Like other European cities, Krakow’s merchant history resides in the open marketplace, so it’s no surprise whatsoever to discover that the city’s main square – Rynek Glówny – is host to the Cloth Hall Market. The Medieval square itself is quite possibly the most impressive one you’ll see - it’s the largest and grandest of its type in Europe; the Cloth Market houses many stalls that trade in crafted goods – perfect to browse around for that handy take-home gift. It’s possible you’re only spending a few days in Krakow and you might, therefore, just want to hit the gladrag sights and be done with it. Take time, however, to blend tourist spots with solemn reflection by paying a visit to Oswiecim (Auschwitz), a Nazi concentration camp that has been preserved as a reminder of inhumane times past.

Where to stay: All tastes and pockets are catered for; if you can push the boat out a bit try the modern Hotel Raddisson SAS (www.radissonsas.com); it’s situated opposite the Philharmonic Hall on the edge of the Old Town, and a five-minute walk from either the Wawel Royal Castle or Rynek Glówny. If this doesn’t suit, then try out Hotel Eden (www.hoteleden.pl), 21st century comfort housed in 15th century buildings.

Riga/Latvia
While it’s true there are few places left in the world that haven’t been filleted by hordes of tourists, there remains several places that have yet to succumb to such rigors. Riga is one of these places – but you had better be quick about it, as Latvia’s capital has been sizzling for a few years now and looks set to jump out of the pan sometime soon. In short, it’s one of Eastern Europe’s most throbbing, pulsating cities with a positioning of cool bars and nightclubs against some of the most gorgeous Art Nouveau architecture you’ll see and a beautiful Old Quarter.

While historically the city (and country) capitulated under Nazi and Soviet sorties, there doesn’t seem a shred of residual sufferance underneath the stoic countenance of the natives – such is the nature of the people and the place. It’s also a great place all year round – very cold and dark throughout the winter, fairy-tale like when the snow falls onto cobbled streets; and very light (and light-headed) during the summer, albeit rocking hard pretty much 24 hours a day. What’s not to like?

What to see/do in Riga: We’ll get to the ‘what to see’ bit shortly. What you have to do is this: visit the Central Market. As one of Europe’s largest markets (and also its oldest – it dates back to Riga’s founding in 1200), the Central Market is home and hearth to everything you could possibly think of and more you can’t. It’s located by the train/bus stations, and no, you really can’t miss it – it’s 57,000 sq metres big! What to see is also a no-brainer – how about the splendid toytown/ fairy-tale streets and architecture of Old Town? Not for nothing has it been called the ‘Paris of the East’.

Where to stay: One of the most important things to realise about accommodation is that booking in advance is essential. One of the best places to stay in Riga is Gutenbergs (www.gutenbergs.lv), a beautiful hotel in the heart of the Old Town that boasts a superb rooftop restaurant. If you’re on a budget, try Forums (www.forums.lv), a modern hotel with later day prices.