Travel

Angela Long takes us to the magical Venice Carnevale and tells us what to expect this year.

Mysterious Venice
Ever seen photographs of a foggy, mysterious Venice, peopled by exotic creatures in black tricorn hats, masks, ballgowns or elaborate tailcoats? These are images from the elaborate annual carnival, which culminates in Mardi Gras, or Shrove Tuesday, and if you want to witness the reality, it's on this month.

The Carnevale (which means 'farewell to meat') runs from February 17th to 28th this year, as Ash Wednesday is on March 1st. It's an ancient custom, like similar events in Rio de Janeiro and many Latin countries. The Venetian carnival really got going in the 13th century, to celebrate a famous naval victory of what was then an independent republic. It fell into disuse around the late 19th century, but was revived by design students and an official eye on tourist income in the 1990s.

And what a spectacle! There are dozens of organised events, balls, dinners, gondola rides and concerts. But the carnival is really taken to the streets by the hundreds of costumed participants, who spare no trouble or expense to make their outfits jaw-droppingly gorgeous. Anyone can participate. Many of the splendid masqueraders are locals, or at least Italian, but there is nothing to stop you from dressing up, no matter where you hail from. Just make sure it's good – there are no halfmeasures or back-of-thewardrobe throw-togethers in this crowd.

St Mark's Square is the focus, and a stage at one end hosts regular parades of the more extraordinary costumes. This year the rather mixed theme is of things Chinese plus the theatre…so no doubt there will be inspiration drawn from Turandot, Puccini's opera set in China.

I went to the last carnival, and was blessed with brilliant sunshine, despite the cold coming up from the icy waters beneath the Venetian flagstones. With a clear blue sky and luminous light, the costumes had a fabulous natural setting. Venice is famously sinking into its watery setting, and was inundated only last December with up to 20cms of water covering the streets in some areas. So bring your wellies if you go – and if you can't, there's an opportunity to see Venetian carnival style in aid of a good cause on March 11th.

Sharon Ferguson, a master's student at the National College of Art and Design, has designed two full-scale carnival costumes, and her fellow students have made elaborate masks typical of those worn everywhere at carnival time. The event takes place at the Mansion House, Dublin, in aid of Fighting Blindness (tel 01- 709 3050).

Flight to carnival

Ryanair sometimes has 99p flights from Dublin to London Stansted, and with taxes, a return would be around €60. From London to Venice (Treviso), the 99-ers are just about all gone. Aer Lingus has direct flights from Dublin at around €143 return – if they are still available. Alitalia goes via Milan for around €230.

Carvinal activities

On Saturday February 25th, the Doge's Ball takes place at the Palazzo Pisani Moretta (www.ballodeldoge.com). There are no ticket prices on the website, but expect them to be expensive. For something less hard on the wallet, a Saturday morning performance of Baroque music in San Vidal Church, with a cocktail before the 11 am start, is a recommended way to start the carnival's wildest day. €80, contact Club Culturale Italiano or www.meetingeurope.com. To soak up the Venice experience, there are numerous events featuring a gondola journey. On Wednesday February 22nd, for example, Club Culturale Italiano is organising a 40-minute trip from St Mark's, ending in dinner at Le Poste Vecie restaurant, costume expected, for €150. Contact as above. There's loads more to do, all listed on www.carnivalofvenice.com.