Travel

Tony Clayton-Lea soaks up the beauty and history of Bath.

A destination fit for a queen

I’ve been to bath a few times now, and each visit throws up a surprise or three, which makes it all the more a worthwhile place to go to. Is it very grand? Yes, it is. Is it unlike pretty much every other UK city? Yes, it is. Does it have a one-way traffic system that’s confusing and is it tricky to find a decent parking space? Yep, those too.

Of course, when one thinks of Bath the word 'spa' automatically comes to mind. It all goes back to the Romans and their advanced levels in plumbing. Between the 1st and 4th centuries, Bath's natural hot springs were tended to, but as the decades passed by so did the interest in looking after them. Come the end of the 17th century, Queen Anne visited Bath, on the advice of her teams of physicians, to 'take the waters'. From then on, the general rule of thumb is that if taking the waters to ease pain and aches and general ailments was good enough for royalty then it was certainly good enough for the rest of us.

And speaking of waters and hot springs, you'll be pleased to know that the much-delayed Thermae Bath Spa (it's called Britain's most original and remarkable new Spa, and boy, they aren't fooling around with that description) has recently opened. The Spa development focuses on the restoration of five historic buildings - including the 18th century Hot Bath and Cross Bath - and the construction of a very impressive glass and stone building. With indoor and outdoor thermal spa bathing (with natural hot water, the outdoor rooftop pool will be in use all-year round), steam rooms, massage/treatment rooms, a restaurant and a visitor centre, the restored spa delivers over one million litres of water every day at a temperature of 45°C.

But enough of getting into and out of hot water. For the casual visitor, Bath is as much about dry land as wet spaces. Once standing second only to London as the social capital of England, there's a strong museum-driven aspect about Bath that is difficult to shake off. Its reputation as a former centre of one of Britain's Great Meeting Places for 18th-century British artists, politicians and intellectuals is understandable, as it is quite possibly the only city outside of London to have been so frequently namechecked in 19th century English literature. Jane Austen, who used the city as a backdrop for Persuasion and Northanger Abbey, once wrote that Bath was a "../../../../../lifestyle/dismal sight." Believe me, Jane, it's changed… There are many things to do in Bath, but if you only have a brief time there, I'd advise you to definitely check out the Royal Crescent and take in the clever design of John Wood the Younger. Some regard it as a folly, but on a clear day and from a certain angle, it's really quite astonishing. A short walk away is The Circus (built by John Wood the Elder, no less), a circular residential pile the like of which you won't see anywhere else - or at least not as grandiose and imposing.

Above all else, Bath is probably the most comfortable of UK cities in which to walk around. If you're not into formal sightseeing tours (and that's understandable if you’re only there for a short amount of time) then why not stroll around the centre and visit some of the city’s highly regarded independent shops. Actually, there is a walk I'd certainly recommend - the Bizarre Bath Comedy Walk. I'll say no more other than you've just got to do it.

And finally, if your flexible friend can stand the strain, try to book into the Royal Crescent Hotel. Harking back to a classdefined tradition of service (many aspects of which are performed with total seriousness and absolute professionalism), the hotel is somewhat austere but incredible to experience.

My room (the 'Brinsley Sheridan') had a visitor's book. Nosing through it (as you do while waiting for that all important knock on the door to tell you that dinner is ready) I noted that the room's previous occupants had written, "We have experienced nights of passion unknown."

All things considered, this diary entry was amusing to read, but not to think about, and perhaps a little bit too much information than I wanted to know. I mean, really - where was the refinement, subtlety and wry quips of Jane Austen when I needed them?

For further information on Bath and surrounding areas, contact Visit Britain on 01-6461817